There is something incredibly seductive about the traditional image of a Parisian woman; dressed in effortless black, svelte and utterly self-assured. Similarly, the Scandi chic of recent years, with its artful mix of muted, neutral tones, is compelling for its sheer restraint, and potency. While I’ve always appreciated the singularity of both looks, the dedication both fashion cohorts demonstrate to their neutral colours of choice, I’m fashion-savvy and realistic enough to understand that I am neither a modern-day Audrey Hepburn or an Irish version of Pernille Teisbaek [the Danish stylist, influencer and creative director]. I tread as carefully with neutrals as other women do with colour.

Historically, neutrals – black in particular – have always signified elegance, refinement and good taste. Designer Ann Demeulemeester once proclaimed, “Black is not sad. Black is poetic. How do you imagine a poet? In a bright yellow jacket? Probably not.” Coco Chanel, meanwhile, famously described black as “the perfect harmony”. Black is also associated with a type of modern-day, urban cool, embraced by New Yorkers and intriguing celebrities such as the Olsen twins and Angelina Jolie. Colour, on the other hand, was perceived as dissolute in the 1800s because it was worn primarily by prostitutes and other “immoral” characters. In recent decades, though, colour has become associated with a kind of zany, eccentric approach to fashion; the sort espoused by celebrities like Katy Perry. It’s less about looking “stylish” and more about standing out.

It is difficult to make your sartorial mark in a crowded room while wearing neutrals. Pernille Teisbaek does this with ease, however. I interviewed her when she was in Dublin in 2019, and she looked the hallmark of pared-back sophistication in a biscuit coloured, oversized trouser suit by The Row (the Olsen twins’ luxury label). I was so glad that I chose a signature colourful outfit to wear to that interview. I was tempted to turn up in some sort of restrained, Scandi-style getup – she might respond to me better or respect me more if I did – but as soon as I saw her, looking so comfortable in her own skin, her complexion brightened by the shortbread shade she was wearing not devastated by it as mine would, I understood once again that imitation might be the best form of flattery, but it’s the worst way to approach your wardrobe.

Colour can look just as sophisticated as a black-and-white ball. With the exception of purple – which I never think looks good on me – every shade on the colour wheel is represented in my wardrobe, yet there’s nothing garish or especially quirky about my style. In fact, it’s unfussy, loosely tailored, and, I hope, modern and sophisticated. Every well-put-together outfit requires balance – of textures, shapes and shades. Wearing colour with confidence is simply about achieving this balance; for instance, a streamlined silhouette counteracts vibrant hues, thereby preventing any clownish associations. You don’t have to light up the sky like Blackpool Tower to make an impression with colour. One well-cut piece in a vibrant shade that suits your skin tone is enough to inspire confidence in you and admiration in others. And if you’d like to be braver, colour-blocking looks arresting but not try-hard. Simply choose two shades (Google examples if you’re not sure which to go for – I love cobalt blue and tangerine) in tailored separates for a look that’s fresh and modern.

Colour has the added advantage of helping you to feel as bright as you look. I learned many years ago that wearing colour lifts my spirits as well as my look, and there’s science to prove this. I’ve written before about the theory of “enclothed cognition”, whereby the clothes we wear have an effect on our mental processes; the way we think, feel and behave. Studies show that both the symbolic meaning of clothes and the physical experience of wearing them impact us. The reasoning goes that wearing colour will lift your mood, sporting athleisure will motivate you to move more, while lying around in baggy tracksuit bottoms will do little to ensure you keep your New Year’s resolutions unless they consist of watching more Netflix.

According to The Guardian, women’s’ appetite for colourful clothes has grown substantially over the past five years, possibly in response to the political, social and economic turbulence of a Trump administration and Brexit. Trend forecasting company WGSN’s colour director, Jane Boddy, told the newspaper that women understand, “how colour connects us, as human beings, and how we use it as a tool to define us.” A good example of this ability to connect people is last November’s initiative on Instagram, which encouraged women to wear a hot pink suit to cast their vote in the American Presidential election. It was perceived as a rebuke to the status quo in lieu of President Trump’s derogatory remarks about women, as well as a show of female strength and solidarity. It also helped to recalibrate how we think about colour. Neutrals have traditionally been seen as no-nonsense, but colour can look cultured, intelligent and earnest too. Let’s face it, German Chancellor, Angela Merkel, is one of the most serious women in the public eye, yet she consistently embraces pops of colour as part of her professional uniform.

Certainly, the spring/summer catwalks this year have responded to this fresh appetite for colour, with neon, pink, yellow, green and tangerine appearing dominant in designer shows from Prada and Versace to Ellie Saab and Jason Wu. Indeed, there was nothing Armageddon-like about the mood of September 2020’s catwalk shows despite the pandemic. This has been reflected in menswear also, with the usual line-up of monochrome separates replaced by a kaleidoscope of colour akin to what Elton John would have worn in his heyday. If a downturn in the economy inspires modest hemlines, then it appears a global pandemic prompts a colour rush. The Observer reported last month that Instagram fashion brands are seeing a massive uptake in colourful clothing.

*Julia Roberts rocking colour blocking in midlife*

Colour can seem scary in midlife. It makes a statement, requires a bit of thought and suggests a confidence with clothes, and in yourself, which you may not necessarily feel, at first. But I believe colour becomes even more important as we age. It’s not a panacea for dull skin, tired eyes and low self-esteem, but you can be sure that black isn’t either. And although I speak of style and balance, none of this matters if you feel good. The key is not to be too cautious with colour. Like sea-swimming, if you dip your toe in first, you’ll run away with fright. You’ve got to dive right in. And if in doubt, remember what the eminently quotable Coco Chanel said, “The best colour in the world is the one that looks good on you.”

Marie Kelly, January 2021