Hype or Hero? Cult Products Reviewed
2020 certainly changed how we did pretty much everything. With less places to go and fewer people to see we started to wear less makeup. We also missed the freedom of browsing makeup counters and testing out new products to see how we liked the texture and colour of any new offerings. Without the ability to pick up a tester, did you stick to your old reliables or take a chance on new product launches? There is something about knowing a product is a hero or bestseller that brings confidence in a purchase and some heroes are that for a reason while some just don’t live up to the hype for everyone. Below are just a few best-selling product picks, both new and old, along with my thoughts on them.
Embryolisse Lait Crème Concentre
This backstage hero by French brand Embryolisse was invented in 1950 by a dermatologist. It’s a pretty versatile lotion because it can be used as a primer, moisturiser, face mask and it can also remove makeup. I love to use this product pre-foundation on clients whose skin is a little on the dry side. The beauty of this product is that it leaves the skin looking and feeling hydrated while being light enough to be used before your base. Would I use this on myself as an everyday moisturiser? Probably not as there are other skincare products with more skincare benefits but it works wonders as a primer and I would never be without it in my kit. It can also be mixed with foundation to create a custom made tinted moisturiser for those days that require less makeup.
Clarins Double Serum
Clarins describe their double serum as an anti-ageing treatment with five functions: Hydration, nutrition, oxygenation, regeneration and protection. Now I’m not one for buying into claims that products can remove wrinkles but I sure know when my skin likes something and it most definitely likes Clarins Double Serum. A lot of serums absorb quickly and leave my skin feeling tight and ready for moisturiser immediately yet this serum feels luxurious and leaves my skin feeling nourished and hydrated. A product I return to again and again.
Charlotte Tilbury Flawless Filter
A flawless filter indeed: this glow booster leaves skin looking all things bright and beautiful. You can use this product alone, mixed with your foundation or over your foundation where you want some added radiance. 2020 saw a lot of us ditch heavy bases and opt instead for BB creams or no base at all. Using this after my skincare routine leaves my skin looking healthy and illuminated but in a really natural way. Simply teaming this with concealer and mascara keeps my makeup lightweight while wearing a mask all day. And while it’s a great addition to any makeup bag for a minimal makeup look, this product is also perfect for a look that’s more glam.
Pillow Talk Lipstick - Original
The jury is a little bit out on this one for me. There are times I really like it and times I don’t. It is one of those products that everybody has but not everybody needs. When it’s right, it is right, but sometimes it can look a little too deep for a pale Irish cailín which can often pull focus from a gorgeous eye makeup that otherwise might be better suited to a lighter nude lip.
I like this applied as a soft stain keeping lip edges diffused rather than sharp: a look that is like your lip colour only better and ideal for everyday wear. If you don’t like matte finish lipsticks this nude pink may not be for you but applying lip balm before the application will add moisture if you prefer the feeling of a more hydrating formula. For a more defined lip and added depth without making too much of a statement, team Pillow Talk Lipstick with Pillow Talk Lip Liner or Supersize Me Lip Liner. Charlotte Tilbury Lip Liners are a firm favourite of mine.
Estée Lauder Double Wear Light
As the name suggests this foundation is lighter than the original double wear. Its oil-free formula makes it a great option for oily or combination skin and it’s one I reach for when I have a client who needs a bit of staying power. This isn’t to say it can’t be worn by anyone with normal to dry skin. In fact, teamed with an illuminator underneath it can look really radiant. Choosing a matte formula for a more mature skin often goes against my natural instinct but this finish works really well when the skin is hydrated and prepped with an illuminating primer.
The formula changed in recent times and people were so upset they marched in their droves outside Leinster House (not really, but quite a few people were very put out). Estée Lauder changed the description from ‘Stay in Place Makeup’ to ‘Soft Hydra Matte’ so it would seem the new formula is more hydrating than its predecessor but possibly more on the matte side. It also now comes in 21 shades which is a vast improvement. If you like full coverage this may not be for you but I definitely find the new formula more buildable than the old version which is a plus for me as I like some versatility in a foundation. For extra coverage just add concealer where needed for a flawless long-lasting base.
YSL Touche éclat
Launched in 1992 at a time when many people didn’t really use concealer and didn’t really understand the need. Makeup wasn’t as sophisticated back then and lashing a full coverage foundation all over your face with your hands did a grand job. Enter Touche Éclat: a magic wand for brightening the under eye. A highlighting product to lift your complexion and make you look like you had 8 hours sleep. But this was instantly confused with concealer and used as such. Trying to conceal spots with a highlighter such as Touche Éclat only accentuates them and if you are prone to puffy under eyes using a highlighter will only make that worse. Lightening an area will bring it forward which is why Touche Éclat is ideal for brightening shadows not highlighting things you’d prefer to hide. Used correctly it can brighten the shadows between the sides of the nose and inner eyelids, lift dull areas under the eye and brighten any ageing nose to mouth shadows. I would never use this in place of concealer under the eye as it lacks coverage. I would only ever use it before foundation and before concealer to lift specific areas for a more youthful complexion. But while Touche Éclat certainly has its uses, if I was given the option of only using it or concealer in my kit, concealer would win every time.
Mac Fix +
This beauty product suffers from a severe case of mistaken identity. It is not a setting spray despite the name. Fix+ is a hydrating mist with added skincare benefits. This mist refreshes makeup and dehydrated skin. I love it when a makeup look has had time to settle becoming slightly more lived-in. Fix+ delivers that settled lived-in look in an instant, bringing skin back to life. If you find you over-powdered or your skin looks dry, Fix+ takes that flat, powdered look away and breathes life back into your complexion. Another professional kit staple.
Nars Orgasm Blush
While this iconic blush shade is a gorgeous mix of peach and pinks, it has always been a little too glittery for me. Mac Peachykeen, a sheertone blush, is a similar shade with delicate gold particles that create a polished sheen rather than loose glitter particles.
Tarte Shape Tape Concealer
This much-hyped full coverage vegan-friendly concealer shot to fame when pretty much every beauty influencer screamed about it from the rooftops. But a full coverage concealer that lends itself perfectly to a heavy Instagram beat shouldn’t necessarily be feared if you favour a more natural makeup look. This is my go-to when other concealers just don’t cut the mustard when it comes to very dark circles under the eyes. It also works beautifully for additional coverage on redness or skin prone to breakouts. But you don’t have to have any of those concerns to enjoy this concealer. Using Shape Tape correctly and sparingly never leaves skin looking heavy or caked: just perfected.
Beauty Blender
Okay I admit, I have never used a beauty blender. Not the original one anyway. It doesn’t come cheap and there are other great versions for a fraction of the price. This is probably one product I am questioned about most. Are they just another gimmick? Absolutely not, I love using a sponge for flawless and easy application and they are my go-to when applying my own foundation. Using the sponge in a bouncing motion stipples product onto the skin giving you control over the coverage you want. The edges allow ease of application in all the little nooks and crannies. If you have an area that needs additional coverage you just focus more on those areas by pressing the product into the skin. Real Techniques beauty sponges are an excellent alternative to the original beauty blender and can often be found on 3 for 2 offers in Boots. If you use one please do wash it regularly. You can purchase sponge cleansers and soaps to keep your sponge bacteria-free and avoid nasty breakouts.
Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady
No beauty regime is complete without fragrance. I have lusted after this legendary fragrance for a long time and I finally got my hands on a bottle this Christmas. It is certainly not cheap and nor does it smell it. I recognise this distinctive scent in an instant when I notice it on others and it claims to attract people like a magnet. Since wearing it others have asked me about my fragrance. Okay, one person asked, but considering I got this as a present at Christmas and I haven’t been around any other people due to lockdown 3, having the receptionist at the emergency vet ask me what perfume I was wearing was quite impressive, especially considering she was seated two metres away, behind a protective screen and wearing a mask.
If you love this fragrance but can’t bring yourself to stretch to the price tag of €180 for a 50ml bottle then I think you will like Floral St Chypre Sublime. Both fragrances contain Rose and Patchouli and have many similarities with Chypre Sublime being the ever so slightly sweeter, perhaps more feminine of the two. With a much more affordable price tag of €65 per 50ml Chypre Sublime is a pretty good alternative to this iconic scent.
Ailbhe Lynch, January 2021.
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