Right, so no doubt you’ll be aware of the basic tenets of an effective skincare regime. Growing up it was always; cleanse, tone, moisturise. And that was kind of it. Then as we (and our spending power) became older and more established, we learnt more about what skin needed and thus added in the required extra steps. Shops like Space NK opened in the UK (I worked there), Blu Eriu opened in Dublin (I worked there too!) and all of a sudden department stores had beauty halls that looked more Indie and a bit more apothecary style. It was an exciting time in the beauty industry. Brands like Kiehls and Elemis took the place of the old standards such as Lancome and Boots No7, and we learnt about SPF’s, masking, glycolics, aromatherapy and those mysterious things known as ‘actives’.

Of course, now, the skincare industry has morphed again many times over, we’ve witnessed (and thus rejected) complicated 12 step Korean regimes. We’ve embraced eye patches and acids and bought glass bottles with droppers selling pure ingredients cheaper by The Ordinary and Typology. That newer cohort of skincare companies are taking on an education style approach, and we’re almost back to the lab-look, apothecary style of the early ’90s.

As ever though, it all boils down to this one consumer question: But what will I buy?

Friends, it’s never that easy. And I know, I’ve worked in beauty for years and years. I was trained by a lot of skincare brands back in those days when I worked in beauty retail as a makeup artist, and in my years as a beauty editor on magazines, and I still can’t answer that question for you! I can answer it for myself though, as I’ve figured out what my skin needs and likes. But so much is trial and error. It’s a very specific solo endeavour of exploration. You’ve just gotta try ‘em to see what works for you. Annoying, I know.

That said, there are basic rules, and especially for skin over 40. So below are some products that perform. The ones that do as they say they will - and are nice to use to boot. Because, that’s part of it too, right!

Rolling back just a bit though. The basic steps have evolved from 90’s skincare techniques and in case you don’t know, what your skin will probably do very well with, as in will probably be healthy, protected and refined with, are these elements: cleanser, anti-oxidant/vitamin C, moisturiser and SPF in the morning, and then cleanser, acid-based toner, serum (possibly peptide) and moisturiser alternating with a regular retinol. Which, as I’m sure you know, is the only product proven to have a positive, refreshing effect on lines, wrinkles, sunspots and all that jazz. Bear in mind too, that if you’re taking HRT, oestrogen is also known for a refreshing look to the skin, so there’s another win for hormone replacement therapy.

But seeing as moisturisers are a particular minefield, here’s five from brands who know their stuff and are packed with ingredients that work very well on midlife skin. Obviously, there are many more, so we’ll circle back again (as they say in the States and in Zoom meetings).

Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream

This brand is now available in Boots and is very highly thought of in the skincare space. It’s silicone-free and focuses on peptides which is key. Peptides are amino acids that you can consider as building blocks within your skin and they inspire and provoke the replacement and creation of lovely things such as collagen and elastin, and that, dear one, is a very good thing. Overall too, it’s a brand to know for skin over 40, they know their stuff and it shows.

Buy it at Boots

Augustinus Bader, The Cream

Eye-wateringly expensive, but extremely effective. The arrival of this cream reminds me of the fuss made when Creme de la Mer first hit the market - all that ‘special ingredient’ stuff, touting that no other product on the market has it, telling anecdotes of people’s skin being transformed from dry, dull and lack-lustre to something akin to a natural wonder. Well, this moisturiser, called The Cream (do I sense ego?) contains a similar story of a scientist behind the brand and his magic ingredient (remember Creme de la Mer’s Max Huber and his Miracle Broth?). In this case, it’s called Trigger Factor Complex (TFC8) - “a ground-breaking compound that works to ‘unlock’ skin’s innate code and activate regeneration”, but the thing is, it seems to work. Perhaps not for everybody, perhaps not for you, but the majority of people using it report dramatically improved skin tone, texture and appearance - and it is especially suited to the skin as it ages. So, I’ll just leave that there. Over to you.

Buy it at Brown Thomas.

Biologique Recherche Creme ADN Elastine Marine Collagene Marin

Now, this is the brand I personally love. The majority of my skincare regime is theirs, but this is after multiple treatments with their skincare professionals and having them get to know my skin and its needs. I am a full believer in the power of Biologique Recherche, their Lotion P50 has those elusive terms so often attached to it in beauty media, that of ‘iconic’ and ‘cult-status’, but that is for one simple reason - it works! Like, it really works! And I fully recommend getting your skin reviewed by someone who works with the brand so they can guide you through what can be a slightly intimidating offering as so much of it is in French and prices are hidden on e-commerce sites.

But to the moisturiser, you say! Yes, this one contains a multitude of natural, potent ingredients that work together in synergy to maintain and refine your skin. I have noticed so much difference in my skin since introducing it to my skincare about two years ago. So much so, I rarely wear foundation now, when I used to use it daily - even when just at home. The people behind this brand live for skin, they know it inside and out - literally - and they create products that combine a symphony of ingredients to truly serve skin as it ages.

Available at Institute of Dermatologists, Floraison and Skin Passion.
See the Biologique Recherche Instagram too, for more information on the brand.

La Roche Posay Anthelios Age Correct SPF50

I’m going to just get right down and say it - this is a wonderful product! Brand new to the market from a brand that I utterly trust and respect, this cream is fantastic. I’ve been wearing it daily since I got it and love it. Thing is, I’m not fully sure if it’s designed to be a moisturiser too, or solely an SPF, but it certainly has wonderful moisture and skin comfort benefits and the ingredient line up is top shelf. It contains hyaluronic acid for increased hydration, niacinamide to sort any sensitivity and refine pores, LHA - which is a derivative of salicylic acid that will brighten skin, and something called PHE - resorcinol which decreases pigmentation. So far, so like a moisturiser, but with an SPF of 50! It has no white residue and sits beautifully under makeup too. I’ve worn it both over my day cream and as a day cream - so I think with something as sophisticated as this product, it can be whatever you want it to be. Wear it your way. There are no losers here!

Buy it at Boots

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The Inkey List Peptide Moisturiser

I love a brand that does what it says it will do. I also love basic language with no jargon and simple, targeted effective ingredients and, friends, that is The Inkey List all over. The brand only has 15 products and is one to know. This cream is called Peptide Moisturiser because that’s what it is. It is €17.30, so couldn’t be more reasonable in price and its results are superb. As I said earlier, peptides are key for skin in midlife -make friends with them. This is the doorway - in you go!

As they say on Cult Beauty, where you can buy it; ‘it’s advanced skincare for the price of a couple of coffees” - marketing also done right! Go forth and glow.